Have you looked at your score since you got the secured card? (Here’s how to monitor your credit score for free.) You’re not far from having a score that is considered “fair” (650-699) rather than poor, and that will give you more options for credit cards. And yes, a higher limit could help, because part of your credit score is related to how much of your available credit you are actually using. (Try to keep is below 30%; below 10% is even better.) But paying on time, which you are already doing, is the very best thing you can do for your credit. You’ll find other tips here:
Divorce, bankruptcy two years ago. Car loan four months after at 5.2 percent and paying cash for everything. Double to triple payments on the car. Will never own a house again and proud of it. Have more money in my pocket then ever before. You really don’t need the bank’s so if you can just stay away from the headaches. Life is a lot easier. Just believe in your self.
I had credit of 704+. About 5 months ago, (after struggling financially but paying the minimum due every month), I came into a small bit of money. Thinking of the interest that would be saved, I paid off two loans equaling about $7,000 – the balance of my only car, and the remainder of a personal loan I had taken out about 5 years ago. Now, the only thing left on my credit are 4 credit cards which, at the time, were nearly at their limits. Instead of paying them off, I decided to pay much more on them every month to bring them way down in balance. I have been paying about 3 times the minimum on the cards each month without using them.
While some people need to repair minor infractions, others have major issues to recover from. According to VantageScore, here are the approximate lengths of time it takes to repair credit based on your actions:
Credit scoring is a way to keep people in debt, in my opinion. To me the entire scoring system is a bunch of malarkey. I pay all my bills on time but can’t get my score above 620, even though I’ve paid off one car and am paying on another. The same explanation keeps occuring, that my ratio to balances are too high even though I’ve paid off one credit card and paid the other two down to less than $100. The entire system is rigged against most low to middle income people. Just my opinion.
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After reading this blog I can see that the average American has no clue as to how credit and credit scores work. If you don’t know how something works it is very hard to fix, or improve, it. No wonder the country is in such a poor financial shape.
You guys are truly all helpful. Would just like to say, thank you. Its too bad that there are so many complicated credit scoring models and too bad that this affects everyone in this country. I used to be one of those people that were afraid to check their credit , but have improved it over the past year. I will recommend applying for a Discover card to get a Free FICO score included in your monthly statement. I would also recommend using credit.com and CK.com to help track your progress , NOT just to simply check your scores. The scores they give you are “guesstimates” but can be close to accurate. I also applied for a secured card and within 6 months, the card became unsecured and credit limit went up from $600 to $1500. I’m assuming it could go up another $1500 if I keep making payments on time, but I would recommend this to anyone with bad credit. My FICO score went from 545 to 684 from 8/2014 to 8/2015. Feels amazing and I know at this point , that you MUST start somewhere! I even paid $80 a month for CreditSaint and/or LexingtonLaw to remove the bigger issues on my credit report. They are both great. If you can afford another $80 a month, help them, help you and cancel when you have a better idea on what to do. You must be responsible and straight forward if you want to move along in life with improving your credit. Use all the free tools to learn and take it from there! Good luck to all and thank you again to all on credit.com and all other blogs contributing to this credit world!
How long you’ve been using credit is also a factor in most credit scoring calculations, too. Generally, the longer positive credit history you have, the more confident creditors can feel you are likely to repay your debt on time and as agreed.
Consider your credit score a “Debt Score”. Your score really reflects your ability to STAY IN DEBT, and of course, pay bills on time. When the data breach at Target happened, I checked my balances often and was actually downgraded 20 to 30 points on my fico score for accessing my bank balance too many times. How silly is that. Credit scores are a joke. Work hard, save hard and pay with cash. Over a lifetime, the average joe would save $1000’s if not $10’s of thousands in interest charges.
Hard Inquiries: Hard inquiries appear on your credit report when you apply for new credit and can negatively impact your credit score. (Checking your own credit is a soft inquiry and does not impact your credit score.)
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Thanks for the link! that explains that. I should of just went for the full HELOC that I qualified for, and only borrowed what I needed. BTW The loan went into a garage and new roofing which gave me additional equity as well!
And be aware that, like weight, scores fluctuate. A score is a snapshot, and the number can vary each time you check it. As long as you keep it in a healthy range, those variations won’t have an impact on your financial well-being.
Although, credit scores can be improved in a few weeks, most improvements take months and some take years. It may take time, but paying on time, every time, and keeping credit balances low will slowly, steadily improve your credit.
If the applicant is declined for credit, the lender is not obliged to reveal the exact reason why. However industry associations including the Finance and Leasing Association oblige their members to provide a satisfactory reason. Credit-bureau data sharing agreements also require that an applicant declined based on credit-bureau data is told that this is the reason and the address of the credit bureau must be provided.
After a little back and forth we settled on a 6 year loan of 30k at 4.25% interest. Sounds great but that interest is front end loaded and guarantees the Union will make about 3k by the time I pay them back. I accept this as the price of doing business. At 10 or 15 years that 3k would increase substantially. I wanted a 7 year loan they countered with 6 hoping I would take the 10. I didn’t need to do the math. I was expecting 5 and i would have taken that. I pretended to take 24hr to think about it. So here I sit with 30k and can’t find a damn decent contractor to do any work!! Oh the irony of life… By my calculations, this loan and my wife’s handling of my Paypal account and 1 credit card should secure me a 750-790 within the next 5 years. I am not one who likes to dwell on financial issues and I thank God every day for my wife and her keeping of our finances. To those of you who are young and just starting out… The best advice I can offer is to live within your means. You do not have to keep up with anyone. A home is a home. If I had millions I still wouldn’t move. Get a credit card that you can pay off monthly or keep a very small balance. SAVE, SAVE, and SAVE. Do not invest in anything! The stock market is going to CRASH BAD within the next 10 years. keep your 401k’s in the lowest safest place they can be. Do not listen to the BS of riding it out for the long run…. I saw people loose fortunes. Lastly and most importantly,—— KNOW your NEEDS from your WANTS…. You will be amazed by what you could live without…. Good Luck
If you find that you have a pretty lengthy history of late and missed payments, then your scores on each scoring model will be negatively impacted by your inability to make payments. When determining your score, each scoring model will take a closer look at how recently you have missed a payment or were late, how many accounts were late, and how many total payments on each account were missing or late.
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Some of these have different credit score ranges, so while VantageScore 3.0 and FICO scores run from 300 – 850, there are others that may run from 501-990 or 360–840, for example. You can generally find out what score’s in use by looking at the sheet or site on which the score is being supplied.
That’s not to say you shouldn’t aim high. If you’re thinking about reaching a certain number, you’re either looking to improve your credit behaviors (which is a good thing) or already maintaining a high credit score (which is also a good thing).
Um, not exactly true. I am over 50, have not had a car loan in a decade and all of my homes have been paid in full for almost 10 years. I literally have zero debt except for using credit cards. I use credit cards, paid off each month, instead of carrying much cash and my FICO score, as of today, is 840.
“The most important thing about a credit score is not the actual number, but the factors that contributed to the calculation of that score,” says Henson. “The score factors are the actionable pieces of information for consumers. For example, if a score factor is a high utilization, one solution is paying down debt.”
Yeah, keeping credit cards even if your home and cars paid off and no loans.the cards can keep your credit active and maintain it..really no need to punish people by dropping their score for paying off all their depts..even if no credit cards..thats not right morally